Tomukun Noodlebar

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Do restaurants really need big television screens and pulsing soundtracks? Do we really need to live in the twenty-first century? Seriously, the sound is off on the one TV over the bar at Tomukun (which didn't keep several chefs from clustering around a beaming-green golf tournament one Saturday evening). Half the chairs face away from the TV. The pop music thumps, but echoing conversations in the often-crowded eatery nearly drown it out. With big quasi-abstract photos of the restaurant under construction on the walls, Tomukun's bold atmosphere may not suit some folks. But it's in keeping with the edgy concept of a place that has "beer can chicken" ramen on the menu.

The curry sauce was thick and brown, with not many vegetables. True that--and my twenty-something son loved it. Said it reminded him of gravy for mashed potatoes, the epitome of Western comfort food. My big boys also adored the duck udon. Everyone has individual likes and expectations. The cold soba with nearly flavorless broth didn't appeal to me; shredded flakes of dried bonito and seaweed gave it some interest, but I envied the sweet-vinegar vegetables that everyone else at the table got with their orders. I thought hoisin sauce wasn't a good match for the rice-wrap summer rolls. I was surprised that no kimchi was available with the Korean entrees (I also missed a brown rice option). But on a positive note, the al dente seasoned zukes and grated carrots in the bibimbap were absolutely divine.