The Sardine Room

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We did manage to dip seriously into the soups, salads, and sides, treated from this kitchen as substantial additions to the meal. The six-oyster stew didn't glow the way the fresh mollusks had. However, a Broccolini salad combined the vegetable with roasted mushrooms, prosciutto, and burrata cheese to wonderful effect, and a frisee option garnished with fried oysters, an over-easy egg, and smoked pork jowl was equally delicious. Despite soppressatta and pumpernickel croutons, the chopped salad paled in comparison. Although I've never tasted the original, a side of Brussels sprouts "Momofuku style"--with sriracha, bacon, and lime--must do that New York restaurant group proud.

With all these interesting options, we barely made it to the short list of large plates, though we did enjoy a commendably ample lobster roll and a really excellent version of fried fish--day-boat cod floating in a light and crispy crust--both served with the traditional trimmings of fries and slaw, wonderfully done. Untried options include a wagyu sirloin steak, Berkshire pork chop, braised turkey leg, and, of course, a burger.

Our two consistent disappointments were the limited wine list and the desserts--mostly because the few sweets offered didn't live up to the savories. A Danish cheesecake--layers of dense chocolate cake interspersed with cheesecake--tasted like a frozen confection from a commercial bakery. Mint creme brulee was fine, but on another plate, tough, dry maple-glazed cheddar donuts negated creamy bacon-flecked ice cream and a demitasse of hot cider.