Las Fuentes

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The cauliflower rellenos—tangy pieces of cauliflower cooked just beyond al dente, in a savory red sauce and slathered with cheese—suit a vegetarian’s palate. And there is an unusual tortilla soup: thick with tender chicken, strips of tortilla, and a chunk of corn on the cob—all in a brisk cilantro-flavored broth.

A chalupa piled up with fresh lettuce and a few strands of cabbage is pretty. A gooey cheese enchilada is the Mexican version of the perfect grilled-cheese sandwich. A chili relleno is spicy, dark, and tender, but a tamale is just ordinary.

The chicken and beef are still tender and texturally magnificent. My garlic shrimp needs another flavoring besides garlic.

Bland Spanish rice covers half the plates. The refried beans seem less fresh.

The sopaipillas still shine. The churros are little cinnamon twists with bits of chocolate drizzled on them. The buñuelos—pieces of fried tortillas with cinnamon and sugar—are a third variation on the same theme.