Good food on campus

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lunchroom. A restful and supremely unclaustrophobic space, its walls of glass bring in megalumens of natural light. The superb design picks up and plays off that glow with metallic-textured wall coverings and floating light fixtures in sculptural sheets of translucent acrylic resin. From the low upholstered banquettes to the chairs of steel and blond wood and the sky gray carpet, the graceful, airy furnishings have a streamlined moderne-deco cast, but the real stars in this room are the light and the view. What a lovely place to sit in winter.

The operating times and menu reflect the restaurant’s core functions of breakfast and lunch: the dining room service operates only from half past seven in the morning until two in the afternoon, and only during the week. The coffee bar dispenses Starbucks drinks and prepacked edibles through the dinner hour.

The cafe is run by Elizabeth Kennedy, owner of one of my favorite restaurants, Evans Street Station in Tecumseh; Evans Street’s chef, Alan Merhar, also heads the Glass House kitchen. I cherish Evans Street so much, in fact, that I was hesitant to try the food at the Glass House, fearing it might fall short of my happy memories of the parent. After my first bite here, I breathed a big sigh of relief. Then I commenced to clean my plate.