Bright spot

continued

shortens and a few prices spike during the hectic preshow rush, and the place can empty out to a ghostly quiet by eight o'clock on a Saturday night. Right after work, by contrast, you can join revelers two deep at the bar guzzling bargain martinis (including a refreshing ginger-lime variation), digging into discounted stacks of happy hour egg rolls, and gesturing boisterously with skewers of glazed meat.

I experienced all this in a week of spring visits--and also settled at a quiet booth for a three-hour feast exploring Mercy's French-Asian fusion menu. Co-owner Mercy Kasle draws from the food of her childhood in Burma, while formally trained chef James Jilek provides Parisian flair. Low ceilings, white linen, and white walls brightened by art posters, prints, and a few original canvases create a modern contrast to the hotel's country manor lobby.