Bagger Dave's

continued

provides a better view of the little choo-choo, whose freight cars, emblazoned with the corporate logos of Coca-Cola, Heineken, Budweiser, and, natch, Bagger Dave’s, carry a load of metaphors around the restaurant. Wherever you sit, service is very casual—the fries are served in brown paper baglets, the hamburgers in a cake tin lined with baglike brown paper.

The first Bagger Dave’s made its debut in Berkley, Michigan, in January 2008, although the logo proclaims “Est. 2006.” Apparently during that long gestation the restaurant anticipated an eternal narrative for its fare, as its newly minted tagline already boasts of “legendary burgers and fries.” The Bagger Dave’s that opened in the Colonnade shopping center August 30 is the second; both are owned by Diversified Restaurant Holdings, which also owns a number of Buffalo Wild Wings franchises.

The menu is focused almost exclusively on burgers and fries, with a few sandwiches, chili, and salads. If you don’t like hamburgers, you won’t like Bagger Dave’s; if you’re a serious avant-garde-rare-Wagyu-on-challah connoisseur, you won’t like it either. But if, like me, you’re somewhere in the middle, Bagger Dave’s may have some appeal.